I’ll Fly Away…

The past few weeks have been a prolapse of time; as if Dali’s clocks have come alive and slid down into waxen pools that recount neither the hour nor the minute and I can slip easily backwards or forwards — sometimes simultaneously.  It is a neat trick I’ve learned in New Orleans, where the persistence […]

The Last Gentleman of Frenchmen

We had walked about twenty steps up Royal Street, just past Marigny Brasserie, when the elephant tear raindrops started to fall in big splats on the sidewalk.  We futilely tried to open umbrellas, but it was no use — as if someone pulled the drain plug from the bottom of a cloud — and the […]

Cities of the Dead

St. Louis Number 1 Cemetery commands the corner of Basin Street and Saint Louis like an abandoned fortress; its ramparts are slightly lopsided and crumbling in places, its keeps adorned with angels instead of gargoyles, and its barracks bombed out in places: ruined brick-and mortar rubble entombing the unknown soldiers of New Orleans.  The eastern […]